Isn’t Fashion too much? No, we mean it: Isn’t Fashion just tooo much? Thousands and thousands of shows piled up on top of each other from all the most glamorous cities of the world, displaying delightful frocks for any imaginable weather condition all at once. For example, any style-savvy individual knows that this is the time when collections for both pre-fall and resort are coming out, often from the same designer, featuring ladies in slacks and lads in sacks. Couture menswear resort buy now pret-a-porter demi-couture semi-ironic extravaganzas, we are all tempested by clothes that ideally no-one has really asked for. What a time to be alive.
That’s why we rounded up just the five collections that we felt were really relevant in today’s hectic style panorama, skipping the pictures bit and coming up with five short videos that shows the collection’s inherent fantasy in motion.
We probably could have also included monsieur Slimane’s swan song at Saint Laurent, but we also feel we are in no way prone to celebrate anorexia, so maybe we will skip that, won’t we?
Obviously, Prada: A collection of mesmerising beauty that holds up a mirror towards the mythical figure of the modern woman, only to show some sort of third-wave feminist that is lost in between her own inner strength and her most feminine side. Brocades are shown here alongside hardware and extremely exotic nauticalia: Prom dresses cinched at the waist with thick leather and distressed denim. A damsel in obvious distress that is in no way in need to be saved by prince charming. She’s ok, after all.
That futuristic Tibetan monk from outer space that speaks of eternal lights and interior peace from her Frank Gehry designed abode deep in the Amazon forest, spending most of her time lighting incense and reading both Proust and Asimov. Mr. Anderson did well in dropping those ridiculous pvc trousers from last season and to focus on the spiritual universe of the Loewe woman. All of New York art gallerists are rejoicing as we speak, salivating over some new Celine hype.
This woman is just so eccentric. Like, so eccentric. Eccentricissima. She’s that lady that would spend months planning a Rio Carnival themed sex party (with invites et al) only for not even bothering showing up because a darling friend of her suggested to spend the weekend in this charming chalet overlooking Lhasa. There is a little suggestion of craziness, but that stays subtle. A lady that has the time to ask questions but that doesn’t have any to listen to the answers.
That’s the woman who was THERE. She was actually there. You mention Claude Montana and Zoran to her and, yes, she was there when they first started. Even if she actually wasn’t present for obvious reasons that concern time and space (she might be just sixteen for all we know), she just was THERE. She has lived through those crazy parties at Paloma Picasso’s Paris apartment only to then retire from the scenes, moving to Goa to focus on her chakras. She only comes back to Europe to go and visit her dear friends Serge Lutens and Giorgio Armani, but otherwise she is expected to be meditating on a desolated beach in Norway. She is also a centuries old vampire who once played a smaller role in the inception of the Situationist International.
The Lujon Magazine is not the kind of Global Style Publication that tends to be weak at the knees whenever Demna Gvasalia’s name is uttered. Indeed, the opposite happens to be true. But his debut collection for the house of Balenciaga is a sophisticated ode to couture volumes and cliches rendered in almost mundane fabrics and pieces of clothing, namely, ski jackets. Truth to be told, the new Balenciaga woman is in fact an alien from planet KR005, located in the remote east of the constellation of the Virgo that came to Earth only to show us how to correctly do nonchalance. Also, never Julia Nobis looked the part like she did in this very show.
By Matteo Sarti