The trend machine that typically complements every new season of shows seems to have started early this time round.
From the very early shows presented at New York fashion week we all had the chance to see the same, discreet detail transforming and adapting in pretty much every single collection that has been presented so far: The loose ribbon.
We have seen it flowing whimsically at Peter Copping’s sophomore collection for Oscar de la Renta, and we have seen it conjuring various states of undress at Proenza Schouler. Then it appeared as a minimal accompaniment for Calvin Klein Collection’s watercolour grunge, only for transofrming again into a sultry accessory to the models’ languor at Givenchy and Marc Jacobs.
But where did it come from? Why?
Visually, adding some unfastened, flying ribbons to a silhouette seems to somewhat slow its pace, enhancing the solemn gravitas that lingers not far behind the models: Billowing in mid-air, the ribbon moves differently from the rest of the body, expanding the volumes of an outfit in any direction without really compromising on the solidity of the figure and shape of the actual clothes. In a nutshell, we can say that the unfastened ribbon stands as the optical counterpart of a faint perfume, closely following the person without altogether interfering with the outfit as a whole.
As a trend, we have recently seen loose laces and straps cascading quietly from looks shown at Céline in Paris and Craig Green in London, both brands that heavily rely on the intellectual persona of their customers: Apparently, a strip of fabric hanging undone from a dress or any other piece of clothing is capable to add a cerebral jolt to any outfit, as it stands transfixed somewhere between the carnal and the extra-sensorial. It has something of the monk meditating on a mountain and something of the slut working good-humorously at a fin de siecle brothel in Paris.
Most specifically, many of the collections presented as part of the SS16 season seem to unilaterally reference Prada’s SS09 show, a collection that invoked images of slouch elegance and torpid, Mediterranean bourgeoisie.
In this case, the ribbon is loose, unfastened because of two things: sex and warm weather, what we believe should stand at the very core of any Summer fantasy future or past.
By Matteo Sarti