There is always been a great deal of ‘sex’ in all of the Céline collections that Phoebe Philo has shown as the creative director of the house. ‘Sex’ in all of its nuances: From seduction to femininity to power, the Céline woman has never shied away from wearing her soul on her own skin.
In her latest collection, Philo decided to focus on an unabashed seductiveness, miles away from the clean minimalism upon which she built her reputation in the first place: Zebra prints, pom-poms in fur and broad fox collars, all these elements seemed to come together under the designer’s conception of womanhood, even if ever so roughly sketched, as to represent a playful approach to dressing-up. The duvet coats, the etchings of animals on the shirts and the quilted dresses coming loose conjured and established the ultimate relax in which the Céline woman choses her looks daily.
The result is an introspective glamour that reveres and corrupts the popular notions of what is considered to be ‘Ladylike’: Finally a really resilient take on looking like a woman.
By Matteo Sarti