Gucci Fall Winter 2015: Sense and Sensibility

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Suzy Menkes raised a question in her review of this show: “What is Gucci?“.  It is a question that serves as an answer to the general reaction to yesterday’s offering from the label; Many commenters and journalists have pointed out that “It’s not a Ford’s collection” or that is nor a “Giannini collection”.

Whoa, nothing can escape your all-seeing fashion eye, folks. How did you notice the change?

Going back to the question suggested by La Menkes, we feel that Gucci is a luxury leather brand which RTW has always followed the whims of its Creative Director and at the same time delivered something that is hugely desirable. Whether it is sex, glamour or, as we have seen from its new fall winter collection, sensibility.

Lujon is a magazine about narratives in fashion, and we are very excited that narrative was in fact the hors d’oeuvre on the plate of such a powerful luxury brand’s offering; It is not about the clothes as it is about the woman. How easy it is to picture the new Gucci girl, running down the stairs from her apartment in Florence to see her beau at the door? Wearing nothing but icing pink organza and crushed velvet culottes in antique rose in the softest sunset light whispering in through the open windows?

Even the styling seemed to verge on ‘distracted’: In other shows from other designers, such description could ring as negative, but how fitting, it is again to portray a woman who can’t care less if her sense of colour-combination is failing her, in the eyes of true love and true sentiment and true passion?

That most definitely was the element that screamed youth more than any of the other component of this collection: The carefree attitude to dressing. The “I clearly I have other things in my mind right now” kind of look.

Try and say that this sort of carelessness is not the epitome of luxury.

Yes we get it, there’s no sex in this collection, there’s romance. And again, we seem not to be able to find a feature more desirable than the real emotion; It caters for both the zeitgeist and the customer’s needs.

50 Shades of grey is out in cinemas and at the Grammys/Oscars/Brit Awards everyone wore cut out dresses to show this or that erogenous zone. Kim Kardashian is naked on magazines. Again. YAWN. What’s up with sex, anyway? Isn’t it supposed to excite us? Does it even flickers through our collective mind that Miley Cyrus submitting a bondage short to New York Porn Festival might come as of anything less than surprising?

Michele knows this and he is offering something that at this time is hugely needed in the industry: the real thing.

All images courtesy of Gucci –

by Matteo Sarti


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