Ten treasures from the Hermitage: 16th to 19th Century jewellery

Bouquet of amethyst, rubies, beryls, emeralds, and sapphires bordered with brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, on copper stalks with leaves made of dyed fabric. The highlight of this bouquet is its magnificent tulip formed by a large amethyst in a setting studded with diamonds. Equally splendid is the rose made of thirteen rubies, next to which beryl asters sparkle, whereas the centre is occupied by ears of wheat made of tiger's eye.The bouquet also contains enamelled flowers. Russia, St.Petersburg, Jérémie Pauzié. 1740s The Hermitage St. Petersburg.
Bouquet of amethyst, rubies, beryls, emeralds, and sapphires bordered with brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, on copper stalks with leaves made of dyed fabric. The highlight of this bouquet is its magnificent tulip formed by a large amethyst in a setting studded with diamonds. Equally splendid is the rose made of thirteen rubies, next to which beryl asters sparkle, whereas the centre is occupied by ears of wheat made of tiger’s eye.The bouquet also contains enamelled flowers. Russia, St.Petersburg, Jérémie Pauzié. 1740s The Hermitage St. Petersburg.
Brooch fashioned as a spray of brilliant and rose-cut diamonds set in silver. Russia, St. Petersburg. 1770s The Hermitage, St. Petersburg.
Brooch fashioned as a spray of brilliant and rose-cut diamonds set in silver. Russia, St. Petersburg. 1770s The Hermitage, St. Petersburg.
Chased three-piece gold étui suspended from châtelaine, with carved mother-of-pearl insets and soldered-on gold, chasings representing Venus, two doves, and Cupid's attributes.
Chased three-piece gold étui suspended from châtelaine, with carved mother-of-pearl insets and soldered-on gold, chasings representing Venus, two doves, and Cupid’s attributes.
Carved rock-crystal bowl, with three handles and mount fashioned as dragons and serpents, painted in enamel colours and pavé-set with garnets. Rock crystal was highly valued in the Renaissance. Prague, Munich, and especially Milan were among the most important centres of rock-crystal cutting. Italy. 16th century. The Hermitage, St Petersburg.
Carved rock-crystal bowl, with three handles and mount fashioned as dragons and serpents, painted in enamel colours and pavé-set with garnets. Rock crystal was highly valued in the Renaissance. Prague, Munich, and especially Milan were among the most important centres of rock-crystal cutting. Italy. 16th century. The Hermitage, St Petersburg.
Enamelled gold pendant, set with rubies, diamonds, and pearls. Pendants were among the most popular articles of Renaissance jewellery, and hence they are often to be seen in male and female portraits of that period. If shaped as a flying Cupid shooting a dart ( often supplemented by a couple of kissing doves), they had a symbolic significance and were designed as presents for prospective brides and grooms. Germany. Second half of the 16th century. The Hermitage, St. Petersburg
Enamelled gold pendant, set with rubies, diamonds, and pearls. Pendants were among the most popular articles of Renaissance jewellery, and hence they are often to be seen in male and female portraits of that period. If shaped as a flying Cupid shooting a dart ( often supplemented by a couple of kissing doves), they had a symbolic significance and were designed as presents for prospective brides and grooms. Germany. Second half of the 16th century. The Hermitage, St. Petersburg
Ormolu clockwork toy carriage. France. Mid-18th century. The Hermitage, St Petersburg.
Ormolu clockwork toy carriage. France. Mid-18th century. The Hermitage, St Petersburg.
Pearl and diamond lilies on a copper stalk with two glass leaves. This exquisite cluster is designed as a table decoration. It was perhaps cluster like this one that were the forerunners of Fabergé's renowned flowers. The Hermitage.
Pearl and diamond lilies on a copper stalk with two glass leaves. This exquisite cluster is designed as a table decoration. It was perhaps cluster like this one that were the forerunners of Fabergé’s renowned flowers. The Hermitage.
Pendant formed by a baroque pearl in gold setting, decorated with rubies and emeralds. Caravel-shaped articles of jewellery were very popular in the Renaissance. The goldsmiths fashioned them with great elaboration, painstakingly representing in minute detail the full rigging and crews of such vessels.Length 4.5 cm. Italy. Mid-16th century. The Hermitage St. Petersburg
Pendant formed by a baroque pearl in gold setting, decorated with rubies and emeralds. Caravel-shaped articles of jewellery were very popular in the Renaissance. The goldsmiths fashioned them with great elaboration, painstakingly representing in minute detail the full rigging and crews of such vessels.Length 4.5 cm. Italy. Mid-16th century. The Hermitage St. Petersburg
Bouquet of brilliant diamonds, almandines, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, chrysolites, garnets, hyacinths, and agates bordered with brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, on copper stalks with leaves of dyed fabric. Bouquets of this kind were used to adorn ladies' dresses and were usually fastened to the corsage. Russia, St Petersburg, Jérémie Pauzié. 1740s The Hermitage, St Petersburg.
Bouquet of brilliant diamonds, almandines, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, chrysolites, garnets, hyacinths, and agates bordered with brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, on copper stalks with leaves of dyed fabric. Bouquets of this kind were used to adorn ladies’ dresses and were usually fastened to the corsage. Russia, St Petersburg, Jérémie Pauzié. 1740s The Hermitage, St Petersburg.
Pendant formed by a baroque pearl set in enamelled gold and decorated with diamonds, rubies, and pearls. Renaissance goldsmiths often used pears of irregular shapes, the so-called baroque pearls.
Pendant formed by a baroque pearl set in enamelled gold and decorated with diamonds, rubies, and pearls. Renaissance goldsmiths often used pears of irregular shapes, the so-called baroque pearls.

Pictures taken from: ‘16th to 19th Century jewellery from the Hermitage, Leningrad’

Archive Selection by Oleg Mitrofanov

thelujonmagazine